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By Sharon Atieno
Against intentions by the East African Community (EAC) to phase out imports of used clothing (mitumba) in the region, the Kenyan government has been urged to put in place policy frameworks that support the co-existence of mitumba and local textile manufacturing. This will enable the country to achieve its Vision 2030- Kenya’s development blueprint.
This is according to a new report dubbed
A Prospective View of the Apparel and Footwear Sector in Kenya (2022–2037)
commissioned by the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya (MCAK) and written by the Institute of Economic Affairs (IEA).
The specific policy measures include implementing a harmonized set of import regulations, establishing quality standards for both used clothing and locally manufactured textiles, offering incentives and support to Kenya’s textile manufacturers and enforcing eco-friendly practices in both sectors.
According to the report, Kenyan consumers base their purchase decisions on cost-effective prices from the new and used clothes markets.
According to the 2015/2016 Kenya Integrated Household Budget Survey cited in the report, approximately 74% of households, which amounts to 74,986 families, purchased new clothes or shoes in 2016. Meanwhile, about half—specifically 52,209 households, or around 51%—bought second-hand garments or footwear during the same period.
“There is a wide range in the prices of clothing purchased, suggesting that new clothing and footwear are purchased across the income spectrum,” the report reads.
Typically, Kenyan shoppers purchase both second-hand and brand-new garments. The study reveals that as their earnings go up, the preference for pre-owned attire diminishes. It also notes that such used clothing tends to be seen as inferior products, whose appeal wanes with higher disposable incomes, particularly when pricier options become available.
The report states, “Secondhand and new clothing operate through distinct value chains, exhibit varying supply and demand dynamics, and show significant differences in price elasticity… Therefore, it is crucial to regulate these two markets independently.”
According to Kwame Owino, Lead researcher for the report and IEA’s CEO, the findings reveal that citizens and economies can gain the most when Mitumba and local manufacturing grow together.
“When we remove needless barriers, the combined strength of these sectors can create more jobs, more consumer choice, and more sustainable growth than if we stifle one in favour of the other. It’s a win-win for our economy and hardworking families relying on affordable clothing. This is about smart policymaking grounded in evidence – leveraging the strengths of each segment rather than picking winners and losers,” Owino said.
Likewise, Teresia Njenga, the chairperson of MCAK, stated: “Rather than shunning them, integrating both pre-owned and domestically made clothing could foster economic inclusiveness, generate employment opportunities, and support sustainable growth throughout the region.”
Moreover, she advocated for the creation of a policy framework that equally nurtures and sustains both industries, with an emphasis on regional collaboration across East Africa rather than limiting it to local efforts alone.
In Kenya, the mitumba sector generates about Ksh 12 billion (approximately US$ 93 million) annually through import duties as tax revenue and offers employment opportunities to roughly 2 million individuals, largely comprising women and young people.
The suggested method has proven effective in Pakistan, which ranks as the eighth-largest cotton producer in Asia and holds the second-highest yarn-spinning capacity following India and China. The nation’s textile industry accounts for one-fourth of its overall industrial added value, provides substantial employment opportunities, and supports approximately 40% of the industrial labor force. Additionally, Pakistan stands out as one of the leading importers of second-hand clothes. By 2018, the worth of these imported garments reached $148 million, increasing to about $180 million by 2021.